Coming Home [Season Two]
The second season program of Ahma, ‘Coming Home’, was a story about another home that resides in a person’s memories. Separate from the space one currently lives in, it evokes landscapes, scents, and flavors that linger deep in the heart and are not forgotten even after a long time. This season featured a tasting course that unraveled the memories of Taiwan as recalled by Josh, expressed through coffee and desserts. It was designed to allow one to slowly experience it as if following a journey, rather than merely reproducing specific foods or drinks.
The first course, signaling the start of the journey, consisted of nougat and cascara tea paired with crackers. It represented the moment of slowly entering familiar memories while enjoying a snack brought back from Taiwan before embarking on a trip. The combination of the crispy crackers and the soft, chewy nougat was familiar yet not overwhelming, and the tea made from cascara created a calm atmosphere with its subtle sweetness. In particular, the cascara tea evoked the familiar flavor of Korean jujube tea but was lighter and clearer, making it easy to enjoy without any heaviness. This naturally led to an impression of taking a moment to catch one’s breath before the actual journey began.
The second course unfolded the morning scenery of Taiwan. It was designed to evoke the sounds of scooters heard from outside the window in the early morning and the slowly starting day, featuring cold brew coffee and a cold jelly dessert. The cold brew stood out with its overall clear and clean impression, complemented by a gentle floral aroma and soft acidity. The accompanying jelly dessert was inspired by Taiwanese desserts that cool you down on hot summer days, infused with citrus and osmanthus. Its bouncy texture and subtly spreading aroma were not overwhelming, and the lingering taste was light, harmonizing well with the calm morning atmosphere. It was also impressive how Josh’s memories and Mei’s recollections naturally overlapped, creating a course that blended different memories rather than representing a single culture.
The third course captured the afternoon when the journey became familiar. It was composed of biscuits inspired by pineapple cake, jam, and coffee, resembling the scene of slowly walking through alleyways, browsing souvenir shops, and choosing small gifts to take home. The biscuits drew attention with their buttery aroma wafting gently as soon as they were placed on the table. When bitten into, they had a light yet satisfying texture, and the jam made with pineapple and winter melon was refreshingly fruity without being overly sweet. Rather than simply reproducing the familiar taste of pineapple cake, it felt more delicate and light, and the coffee served alongside it complemented the dessert’s flavors without overpowering them, achieving a calm overall balance. This course conveyed the intention to reinterpret a representative Taiwanese dessert while preserving the memories and emotions contained within.
During the brief intermission, a drink with a refreshing tartness was served, seamlessly continuing the flow before moving on to the next course. Inspired by light and chilled red wine from California, the drink showcased a bright acidity and a clean finish, providing a moment to catch one’s breath and refresh the palate. It felt like a pause before the evening’s vibrancy began, as the heat of the late afternoon gradually subsided, creating anticipation for the upcoming night market atmosphere.
The fourth course unfolded the lively atmosphere of Taiwan’s night markets. The composition evoked images of bustling streets filled with people, the constant sounds, and the aromas of food filling the air, reinterpreting the iconic Taiwanese combination of bubble tea and popcorn chicken in Ahma’s unique style. Instead of bubble milk tea, a latte made with espresso was introduced, and the popcorn chicken was presented in the form of a sandwich, bringing familiar foods in a new light. Particularly impressive was the chicken, inspired by the oversized chicken cutlets I had in Taiwan, which protruded larger than the bread, creating a striking visual. The crispy texture and the flavors of the spices blended harmoniously. This course, which presented the familiar sights of a night market in Ahma’s own way, left a lasting impression.
The final fifth course told the story of returning home after the journey. Although the trip had ended, the flavors and memories experienced there remained, naturally connecting two different spaces into one memory. The dessert inspired by Taiwanese shaved ice and the milk punch expressed a moment where Taiwan and California coexist, gently wrapping up this journey. The combination of shaved ice topped with peanuts was a first for me, and surprisingly, the nutty flavor blended seamlessly, leaving a familiar yet new impression. The strawberries, seemingly stewed with sugar, added a soft sweetness, and the nuttiness of the rice cake powder made the overall taste feel cozier. The different ingredients came together naturally without awkwardness, providing a comfortable conclusion to the final course.
San Gabriel
Ahma
Overall, Ahma’s ‘Coming Home’ was not just a season introducing the flavors of Taiwan, but rather an experience where familiar memories and new interpretations blended seamlessly. Following the courses, I found myself naturally recalling the landscapes of Taiwan throughout the flow of a day from morning to night, with the stories contained in each course quietly connecting, making it feel like one journey. It was a season that I would want to revisit when I wanted to savor the lingering moments beyond just a meal.
A Coffee & Dessert Omakase by Josh Lu
Ahma was a space that transformed coffee and dessert from mere ‘drinking’ or ‘eating’ into a flowing experience. The delicately completed interior in a quiet and cozy atmosphere naturally held my gaze, and while seated inside, I felt as if I had been invited into a space entirely for myself. The first seasonal program of Ahma that I experienced, ‘Beginnings,’ consisted of a tasting menu with a total of five courses, where each course unfolded like a calm scene in a photograph, filled with small yet meaningful moments.
The Welcome course begins gently with tea and shortbread, naturally easing the tension. Inspired by my grandmother’s way of serving tea and simple snacks first when guests arrive, it was a start that made one feel at home in the space. The cascara tea had a light and clear sweetness that was impressive, and the shortbread was plain yet the flavor of the butter was just right, making it easy to enjoy as the first course. The Home course featured cold brew and Aunt Pai’s Flan, leading to a more comfortable and familiar atmosphere. This dessert was inspired by my aunt’s flan, which could only be tasted during family gatherings or special occasions, and its texture was smooth with a balanced sweetness that made it easy to savor. The accompanying cold brew, extracted from Ethiopian beans, was very clean overall, with a subtle chocolate aroma that nicely complemented the sweetness of the dessert.
The Butter course consists of pour-over coffee and biscuits, marking a moment where the essence of the ingredients is most vividly felt. As Josh explained, he has researched for a long time to create the perfect biscuit, and the delicate texture of the biscuit paired particularly well with watermelon rose jelly. The coffee was also served in a way that didn’t overpower, neatly completing the balance of this course. The Awaken course featured espresso and toast, adding a definite rhythm to the overall flow. Inspired by a cup of espresso enjoyed at the place where Josh’s first kitchen experience began, this course focused on a soft and sweet impression, unlike the strong and sharp espressos one might typically think of. The espresso could be enjoyed as is, or with ice or milk added, allowing for multiple ways to experience the same coffee, which was also intriguing. The toast topped with corn complemented the coffee with its nutty flavor and texture.
The final Past and Future course concluded the journey with Espresso Mai Tai and Panna Cotta. True to its name, it connected the past, present, and future, leaving an impression that calmly summarized the overall experience. The Espresso Mai Tai is a mocktail made without alcohol, using coffee with a distinct fruit aroma that blended naturally with the coffee’s unique scent and tropical fruit-like impression. The Panna Cotta was a modern interpretation of childhood almond jelly, gently touching on familiar memories with its flavor. It was particularly striking that both the beginning and end of Ahma start and return to ‘memories.’
San Gabriel
Ahma
Overall, Ahma’s ‘Beginnings’ was an experience that quietly unfolded stories of the past, present, and future through coffee and desserts. The program changes its course composition seasonally, making it impressive that one can encounter different flows even in the same space during each visit. This place operates on a reservation basis, allowing for a more tranquil atmosphere to focus on the experience, and it is a space that comes to mind when one wants to slowly savor each course rather than quickly consume a café visit. If you wish to take a break from daily life and seek a delicate coffee experience, Ahma is definitely a place worth remembering.(link)
