Korean Soul Food
Hojokban is a restaurant that started in Seoul, based on the meaning of ‘a table for a good nation’, offering a new taste and experience by adding a modern touch to traditional Korean cuisine. Having received much love through its New York location, Hojokban is now continuing its journey by opening a new branch in the LA Arts District.
The first impression of the restaurant’s interior was luxurious, with soft lighting enveloping the entire space in a cozy atmosphere. There were ample seating options with both table and bar seating, creating a wide selection for guests. Overall, the calm yet sophisticated mood was impressive. The menu was extensive, ranging from appetizers to mains, rice and noodles, cocktails, wine, and makgeolli. On that day, we ordered a variety of dishes including Yukhwe, Pork Belly Suyuk, Hojok Galbi, Perilla Buckwheat Noodle, as well as cocktails like Strawberry Moon and Sujeonggwa Old Fashioned.
Yukhwe featured cleanly trimmed beef without any off-flavors, enhanced by a subtle dressing of sesame oil and soy sauce, creating a natural harmony with the seasoning. Crumbling the lotus root chips served on the side and mixing them in added a crunchy texture to the tender raw beef, allowing for a richer flavor experience. It was a balanced dish that preserved the traditional appeal of Yukhwe while incorporating a modern sensibility. The Perilla Buckwheat Noodle was a dish where the nutty aroma of perilla oil gently spread over the buckwheat noodles, delivering a light flavor from the start. The noodles retained the moist elasticity of buckwheat, deepening the nuttiness with each bite, and the smooth coating of perilla oil completed a clean yet appealing taste. It was a refreshing bowl that could be enjoyed without burden during the meal.
Pork Belly Suyuk featured pork that was boiled to a suitable thickness, offering a deep flavor without being greasy. The tender meat paired with the accompanying ssamjang created a natural blend of nuttiness and umami, and when enjoyed with the seasoned green onions, it added a refreshing flavor, allowing for a delightful contrast in each bite. Though it appeared to be a simple boiled pork dish, it was a clean plate that clearly showcased the quality of the preparation. Hojok Galbi was the dish I had been most looking forward to, featuring tenderly cooked short ribs that delivered a rich flavor from the first bite. The sweet soy glaze was perfectly absorbed into the meat, providing a clean continuation of salty umami, and wrapping it with the accompanying red lettuce added a fresh texture, creating a well-balanced dish overall. The subtle spiciness of the chili on top of the ribs and the nuttiness of the peanuts felt like points of interest throughout the dish, making it anything but boring.
The Strawberry Moon was a cocktail that offered a refreshing yet natural sweetness that lightly spread from the first sip, smoothly transitioning throughout. The glass rim had a slight dusting of chili powder salt, adding a subtle spiciness and saltiness between the sweetness, enhancing the contrast of flavors with each sip. Its clean finish made it easy to pair with food, and the finish left a pleasantly refreshing aftertaste, making it a delightful drink. It was a cocktail with a soft balance that anyone could enjoy without hesitation. The Sujeonggwa Old Fashioned was a cocktail that modernized the traditional flavor of sujeonggwa, with the warm spices of cinnamon and ginger subtly spreading from the first aroma, which was captivating. The deep flavors of a classic Old Fashioned naturally infused with Korean flavors, creating a smooth yet pronounced taste. Thanks to its non-sweet, calm finish, it was also great to enjoy with a meal, and it was an impressive drink with a blend of familiar yet new sensations.
Hojokban LA
Overall, Hojokban was a place where the charm of traditional Korean cuisine was reinterpreted with a modern sensibility, allowing for a comfortable yet sophisticated dining experience. Each component, from appetizers to mains, noodles, and cocktails, felt crafted with care, and the atmosphere of the space naturally immersed diners in their meals. If you want to enjoy Korean dining in a unique way, I would recommend a meal at Hojokban.
